GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. It's not entirely clear where these devices come from originally, but they are available from AliExpress and eBay.
Please see the Hardware Preparation page for general instructions. You need to access the serial interface. To place the board into flashing mode, you will need to short J3. This can remain shorted while flashing is in progress, but you will need to remove the short in order to boot the Tasmota firmware. As the serial RX is still the same as for other boards, it is possible for Tasmota to read from the serial connection but anything written will not be sent to your terminal.
Blindly type the following command to set Tasmota to the H module type, and it will automatically switch to using GPIO 2 for serial TX allowing setup to proceed:. Please be aware that some of the H modules were sold with only kB of flash. If you only have kB of flash, you can still build your own firmware, but will have to remove components that you do not need, in order to reduce the size of the firmware binary.
You will also have to use a linker script for the smaller flash. For an example, see this issue.
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Cannot retrieve contributors at this time. Raw Blame History. Blindly type the following command to set Tasmota to the H module type, and it will automatically switch to using GPIO 2 for serial TX allowing setup to proceed: module 20 See for more details. For an example, see this issue Known Issue While powering up there is a short but bright light flash emitted from the strip. You signed in with another tab or window. Reload to refresh your session. You signed out in another tab or window.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together.
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Thank you! Simple one here, maybe I just need enlightening if this is not new. It works, no problem but opens 2 questions. On powerup the LEDs flash brightly for an instant - is that within Tasmota's remit or an issue with the controller?
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to mess with the hue and leave the brightness intact? The flash is not normal.How to install merkury doorbell camera
That's why we need Status 0 to check how you configured it. I just turned the unit on after leavng it on dim green last night and powering off but leaving TDM on.
No rules, everything at defaults - not messedwith any controls or rules yet. To add to my woes I upgraded to 7. The lights started flahing green.H801 Police Lights for SmartThings
This is with a known good large toroid PSU able to output 6 amps at up to 60v, with a 12v, 2 amp limit set in place. Max strip consumption is 1.Mitchell tenpenny setlist
I checked, the unit was back to using it's own access point and had lost all the configuration. I put it back in and all is well. I wonder where these issues lie? It could well have been - I'm very new as of yesterday to the H and clearly not read everything there is to know about it. Could you please set weblog 4 and paste the boot log, until the flash. Is the flash just at power up or when connecting Mqtt? Hi, i just tested this, and i can confirm your issue.
If i power on the H its lightning up shortly. That doesnt do that. As previously stated, H flashing on power-up is due to the circuit design and cannot be corrected in Tasmota.
A cursory search of the issues would reveal this question has been already asked a few times and the answer was always the same.
Actually I think I found the issue. They remain in undefined state until they are pulled down by LightAnimate. Hope you are right.
It just reminded me of my garage door magically opening all by itself due to not so clever gpio init during startup after power loss I'n not doing anything with MQTT on it. That's it. Thanks for that. As it happens I get PCB companies harrasssing me all the time for sponsorship andI keep telling them I only write about things I've tried personally - so getting some of those PCBs made would be no problembut at end user prices by the time you get the ESP, the Mosfets, the large block whatever it is, the connectors, any passives and put them in a suitably slotted box, interesting though it may be A shame if that flashing is unavoidable but thinkin about it, it is only when power is appliedSo, Ive been gone from this forum for some time and want to program the controller I bought when this thread first started.
I see there are a LOT of updates to this thread. The links on the first post point to the github so when that gets updated it means the links will be the latest version.
I flashed an airlux 02 controller today and all seemed to go well the smartapp found it… But the green and blue channels are not controllable the are dimmly lit and i cannpt get them to go off… The red and white work properly… Am i to assume its just a bad controller or am i missing something. If you search for my Heatmiser Neostat integration then you will find a link.
Haha yes I thought you were US based. When there is room for some of us to make some changes to the firmware. Why release just bin files and not the source? So plz post your changes for these st rgbw and sonoff to git hub.
Can the original Tasmota devs get some credit here and can we fix a few issues. Like your ssdp discovery is broken in the firmware. I am now slightly irritated you not responding, wonder are you hiding something here? Possibly some tracking code on users.
I think you forget most developers here have done everything on their own back to support the community. Whether Eric is busy or doing something else is fairly irrelevant, he coded something before tasmota was even a thing.
Based on the web requests that the device makes, it is doing nothing malicious and never contacts an address other than ST, so I think you need to be a lot more reasonable in your requests and questions.
I realize the remote would be redundant. I just want to make sure I am not missing a trick. Can someone confirm that I can use this set with the H? I guess this set includes a receiver of some kind for the remote and I would just not be using that.
Yes but not releasing the code and branding it as your own is not right. I have waited and no replys. So erocm either chime in and give us a reasonable reason as to why there is no source or release the source. If he did great thanks. Love it. You can. The only thing you want is the LED strip and the power supply. Thank you for erocm for great work!
I could swap some led strip pins but it seems like in erocm firmware button RED is actually connected to pin W2. Where do I get the correct firmware to fix the colors being off?Available from: Banggood. Please see the Hardware Preparation page for general instructions. You need to access the serial interface. To place the board into flashing mode, you will need to short J3 and GND. This can remain shorted while flashing is in progress, but remember tio remove the short when done.
As the serial RX is still the same as for other boards, it is possible for Tasmota to read from the serial connection but anything written will not be sent to your terminal. Blindly type the following command to set Tasmota to the H module. Please be aware that some of the H modules were sold with only kB of flash. If you only have kB of flash, you can still build your own firmware, but will have to remove components that you do not need, in order to reduce the size of the firmware binary.
For an example, see this issue. Devices by Type Bulbs by Name. Add new template When purchasing through supported device affiliated links you support this site!
H LED Controller. Edit on GitHub. For an example, see this issue Known Issue While powering up there is a short, but bright flash of light from the connected LED strip. None GPIO Led1 GPIO Led2i GPIO None FLAG.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community.
Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. The same happens when changing the Color values. The flickering decreases after a short time, but is still noticeable. If LedTable is set to 0, it is much better, but then the LEDs can only be dimmed in a small range, no gamma correction and the flickering is no longer present during dimming, but is still visible afterwards!
Set Color 13,26,3,23,3 and repeat the steps. Thanks, I noticed subtle flickering too with Arilux LC I hadn't time to check with a scope what's happening yet. Unlikely that this causes the flicker. As far as I understand you see the flicker only during dimming up and down. In this case the tasmota way how to change the pwm could be an issue. There a recent changes to the code to make this much smoother with a Hz instead of 20Hz change process.
Anyhow is this really a flickering or is the dumm down process not as smooth as you expect? Flickering can also be initiated by the power supply. If you can change this experimental this is also an idea to get more insight in the root cause. Running 8. There is no pattern to be found when its off. The analyzer is set at 10 Mhz so there is nou rounding errors with that us.
Can attach screenshots if wanted or do additional tests. Screenshots would be useful. Can you try with 1 PWM active and all off, then with 2 pwm active. I had a gut feeling it was more obvious at low values.Route 66 shirt company
After upgrading to 8. However, I still see quite visible, and much faster, flickering when going near minimum brightness.I write sins not tragedies clone hero
This is not constant, but cycling between stable and flickering over periods around a couple of seconds. I could now record the behaviour of a friend with an oscilloscope. You can see the PWM signal from channel 4, if you switch channel 5 on, channel 4 starts to flicker, which is perceived as flickering of the LEDs.
The behaviour can be reproduced with all channels. I will now test the new Tasmota v8. Thanks, I will try to make a capture with a smaller time scale. There is definitely an issue in the pulse duration.
I still don't know if it's the initial pulse that has a wrong duration or a second pulse that is randomly happening.Note: This is a fork of the amazing Tasmota firmware. Note: Another community member markus has taken this project to the next level and has added support for many more esp devices.
I recommend that you check out his project: [Release] Tasmota 7. Warning: I don't know which method you first flashed your devices with so there may be issues with the OTA from regular Tasmota to this version if your current firmware was compiled a different way. First, after the flash, check to see if the device is broadcasting its SSID and needs to be setup again. I haven't had the time to keep up with the dozens of devices being released based on the ESP chips.
My plan is to add support to the Tasmota releases 6. So, for the 6. This is a work in progress so any additions to that fork are welcome. Right now I have pretty much everything working Device discovery, control, device reporting, etc. One thing that is lacking is the Hubitat driver list. There are dozens of devices supported by Tasmota so drivers need to be created for the ones you want.
The drivers are easy to create though. You basically need to create the events for the attributes that are being reported in the parse method and create a few command methods for the type of things you control on, off, refresh, etc.
Here are the drivers that I have created and any others will be in my Hubitat git with "tasmota" attached to the name. Here is the compiled firmware if you don't want to build it from source.
I used the recommended building settings from Tasmota, so you should be able to upgrade to it like you would the regular firmware first OTA the minimal firmware and then OTA this firmware. I don't know which method you first flashed your devices with so there may be issues with the OTA if your current firmware was compiled a different way.
Compiled Firmware. You can use my device discovery App to find the devices on your network, add them, and manage them. You will need to enable the Hue Bridge Emulation from the device web configuration for this to work. What is the natural evolution of this? Should we be moving to tasmota? If so do we lose some of the capabilities of SmartLife such as the lighting app capabilities cycling colors, police lights, etc?
I'd say if your device isn't currently supported by my other firmware H, older Sonoffs then Tasmota would be the path going forward. Since it supports more devices than I can keep up with. If the other solutions are working for you, there isn't a reason to change.
Especially with the H since there are several functions in the SmartLife firmware that aren't in Tasmota.
I used tuya-convert to update my Xenon plug to Tasmota 6. All worked just fine. It bricked the plug. I was excited at first, but now I am taking a step back I'll probably stay with SmartLife for now This can sometimes happen if the firmware is compiled differently for one version vs what you are trying to OTA.
I used the recommended compile settings here:. The device likely isn't "bricked", but needs to be re-flashed over UART. If it doesn't have easily accessible headers, that could be a problem. Also, check and make sure it isn't just broadcasting the "Sonoff" SSID and needs to be configured for wifi. I have a notice about the compilation incompatibility in the first post, but I'll make it stand out more.Luckily, community took this issue in their hands, and over the course of year and a half, we saw 3 amazing OpenSource projects that are addressing this and many other issues.
This post is an overview and introduction into different options, with a very high-level comparison between them.
Officially, project started in Januarybut it inherited a lot of assets from previous two incarnations, so we can say that project actually started as early as January As name suggests, it was originally built to replace stock firmware for early Iteads Sonoff devices, but it grew to a project that supports many more ESP based boards with a lot of sensors not originally found on Sonoff products.
Project is updated almost daily, exclusively by Theo himself, reworking some of the contributions from the developers community. This community is producing a lot of materials, including a lot of Youtube tutorials and very nice Wiki pages, contributing to adoption and success of Tasmota project. He apparently started with Wemos D1 Mini board being very generic and added support for many other fabricated boards, including Sonoff and others.
Xose is clearly an experienced software developer and a software architect, as project is very well organized and very well architected, but at the same time, is missing wider social adoption, despite very informative blog he runs. Project is updated few times a day, exclusively by Xose, based on the discussions or minor contributions by community.
While there are few Espurna related videos on Youtube, they are far from coverage Tasmota got. Technically, ESPEasy is the oldest alternative firmware out there. They started with generic ESP platform and added documentation on how it can be used for fabricated boards, such as Sonoff, which is clearly a hardware of choice for many Home IoT projects. Project is updated many times a day, mostly by few core developers from Lets Control It, but they also merge code from other contributors, which is quite nice and in the spirit of true OpenSource project.
All firmware options suffer from the same common set of issues and potential areas for improvement:. Community has build at least 3 good alternatives to vendor-provided firmware and each will satisfy most of the basic use-cases, such as controlling relays or signaling temperature reading using MQTT.
Tasmota allows easy start and quick results, has powerful set of features and good support for different sensors, but also comes with some weird stuff that you just have to get used to.
Apart from the standard method of flashing, community around Tasmota including yours truly offers a bit weird OTA method of flashing initial Tasmota image over the stock Sonoff firmware, without soldering or even opening some of the supported devices. ESPurna might be lacking some of the fancy features Tasmota has, so your milage may vary.
I personally found ESPEasy too unstructured and too loose for mass production aka daily usebut on the other hand, I love it when it comes to experiments with new hardware and new stuff, exactly because of the freedom and configurability it gives you. It has very open but very powerful run-time configuration capabilities and is most advanced when it comes to local decision making, potentially reducing the need for MQTT broker and external automation logic.
In theory, all off the existing firmware options offer quite a good set of operability features, like Web UI, OTA, backup and restore, but I will dig into the usability in the next post, to explore how easy it is to really use this software on a daily basis and to rely on it for your home daily operations.
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